After breakfast, we headed straight to Hobbiton, in order to arrive about half an hour before our tour time.
Hobbiton
We had booked the Behind the Scenes Tour months in advance (beware, it's released a few weeks in advance and it sells out fast), and were especially excited about it. In fact, we had reshuffled our itinerary around these tickets! Originally, we had standard admission, but when we managed to secure the Behind the Scenes Tour for a different date, we reorganized the trip accordingly (see the messy map from Day 0 for context).
We had read The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings with the kids beforehand (that was our condition before allowing them to watch the movies), so they were already familiar with Middle-Earth and very excited about seeing the hobbit holes in real life. And I have to say: the tour absolutely delivered.
That said, it might be different from what many people expect. It actually reminded me of Ghibli Park in Japan: less a theme park with rides, and more a fully immersive sensory experience. You go to step inside a world: the smells in the kitchens, the sound of wood under your feet, opening doors and drawers, reading notes left in pantries... it all adds up to something surprisingly tangible. A different thrill from roller coasters and other rides.
Side note: more theme parks like these, please! I don't care about roller coasters, Ferris wheels, or rides. I rather immerse myself in nature and the stories that I love. But I digress.
From the bus ride and introduction by the guide, to the hobbit holes, the food —OMG, the food!—, and even the visit to the workshop where sets, costumes, and props are designed and maintained, the experience was fantastic.
The tour began with our guide introducing herself during the short bus ride, followed by a welcome video explaining how the location was chosen, how Hobbiton was originally built for The Lord of the Rings, dismantled after filming, and later rebuilt for The Hobbit trilogy into what it is today.
A short walk over a hill brought us to the famous "I'm going on an adventure" spot and the entrance to the Shire. Around us were rows of hobbit holes (most of them are just shallow facades, one or two meters deep) and a climb up to Bag End.
I have to admit that the Bag End visit felt slightly anticlimactic. There were quite a few people around, and we had a group scheduled right after us, so we only had a short window for photos and exploring. Still, it was fascinating to learn how it was built, especially the story of the tree above Bag End, which is artificial and designed to stay green year-round.
Behind the Scenes Tour
We continued through the village, passing the large central tree, the playground area, and Bagshot Row. This section was particularly enjoyable. These aren't film sets in the strict sense, but fully detailed structures that you can walk through freely, with an impressive level of craftsmanship. It really felt like being inside of a hobbit hole.
From there we moved on to the Green Dragon Inn for a drink before lunch. Our ticket included lunch at the Millhouse, which was an experience in itself. The food was genuinely excellent: hearty and generous, with plenty of options for both meat lovers (chicken, beef, lamb, fish) and vegetarians (salads, mushrooms, and of course, potatoes: boiled, mashed, roasted...) It was, quite literally, a feast.
I know this may sound like an exaggeration, but lunch at the Millhouse alone almost makes the extra 160 NZD ($90) for the Behind the Scenes Tour worth it. The setup is amazing, the food is incredible, and by that point whatever comes next feels like the cherry on top.
After lunch, we visited the workshop where Hobbiton is continuously maintained and developed —from costumes and furniture to plants and lighting design. It was incredibly interesting, though also slightly awkward at times, as we were essentially observing professionals at work while asking questions and moving through their space.
After the studio visit, we were given some free time to explore on our own. We could wander around the village, revisit hobbit holes, and explore at our own pace. We were told not to open doors or enter the empty holes... but also reassured that nothing would really happen unless we managed to get trapped inside one.
The visit ended with a tasting of New Zealand cheese, wine, and fruit juices. The kids really enjoyed this part. They had been curious during the studio section, but it wasn't fully for them, and exploring all the hobbit holes had left them tired after a long day. So they welcomed this short stop with snacks.
By the time we boarded the bus back, we were all ready for a break. It had been a long but fantastic day... and we had to continue our travels!
Drive to Waitomo and a Night Walk
Our next stop was Waitomo, where we stayed at the Waitomo Caves Guest Lodge. The drive was slower, following smaller rural roads, but it was peaceful and scenic, and we arrived just as the sun was setting.
The family running the lodge was extremely welcoming and recommended a few nearby activities, including one we decided to do that same night: the Ruakuri Bush Walk. My wife was tired and stayed at the hotel, but the kids still had energy for one more adventure, so we grabbed flashlights (some we had brought, others kindly lent by the hosts) and headed out. The walk was only a five-minute drive from the lodge, with plenty of parking nearby.
It turned into a real adventure. On a cool night with a bright moon but near-total darkness under the dense forest canopy, we walked through pitch-black paths and into sections of the Ruakuri Reserve, catching our first glimpse of glowworms in their natural environment.
Before heading back, we also took advantage of the darkness to look for the Southern Cross. The kids learned how to identify it that night and spent the rest of the trip pointing it out every time the sky cleared after sunset. Maybe this whole fun New Zealand thing was just a cover up to get them to learn science.
Kids' Verdict
- Score: 9/10
- Favorite Activity: Exploring hobbit holes
- Biggest Surprise: How dark it was in the night bush walk
- Complaint of the Day: There were only 3 hobbit holes you could see inside
- Driving Time: Medium (it was a bit winding)
Day 2 was one of the highlights of the entire trip. A perfect mix of fantasy, nature, and family adventure.
Continue to Day 3: Waitomo Caves and Maori Culture.
...Or read about Day 1: Arrival in New Zealand and Matamata.
...Or return to the main guide.